The Land of Adventures and Wonders
This incredible journey took me to Northwest China – Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region.
While this province is popularly known as the
‘Land of Fruits’ (melons and grapes) and “Home of Songs and Dances”, it is a land full of adventures.
Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region is the largest of all the Chinese provinces and autonomous regions covering 1.6 million square kilometres in area. The Taklimakan is the largest desert in China and the world's largest shifting sand desert.
Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region is the largest of all the Chinese provinces and autonomous regions covering 1.6 million square kilometres in area. The Taklimakan is the largest desert in China and the world's largest shifting sand desert.
Xinjiang
borders Mongolia to the northeast, Russia to the north, Kazakhstan and
Kyrgyzstan to the northwest, Tajikistan and Afghanistan to the west, Pakistan
and India to southwest and, neighbours Tibet to the south, Qinghai and Gansu to
the southeast.
The
ethnic groups include Uyghur, Han, Kazakhs, Tajiks, Hui, Kyrgyz and Mongols
with a majority of the Muslim population living here.
Xinjiang has a history of over 2,500 years;
where numerous traders travelled through the hazardous desert land and the mountains
a thousand years ago on the ancient Silk Road.
This is an amazing haven for nature lovers and avid photographers; from captivating scenic lakes to awe-inspiring sunsets in the mountains, from drinking all natural fresh camel’s milk to foraging wild mushrooms on the mountain plains and, enjoying authentic tasty meals with the local ethnic folks accompanied by traditional folk music and dance.
We started our two weeks journey from mid-October to end October. I flew into Urumqi, met with our Mongolian chieftain; travelled overland of more than 3,000 kilometres on his four-wheel drive. From Urumqi, we headed north to Fuyun, Burqin, Altay region, Kanas Lake, Sayram Lake, the
vast open plains of Narati grasslands, Karaymay, Yining, Bayanbulak and to the
south of the region; to immerse in the ‘living fossils’ of the poplar trees.
Multi-coloured Yardang Landforms in Fuyun County
Fuyun County borders Mongolia in the north. It is also known as a ‘Natural
Mineral Museum’. There are over twenty diverse ethnic groups living here of
which the Kazak ethnic minority makes up the largest population.
The journey from Urumqi took about over six hours (250km). I saw a treasure trove of natural resources of oil and natural gas fields and, wind turbines fields.
A gallery of yardang landforms; an amazing masterpiece
of unique creation of
wind art that had
been shaped over the centuries.
Colourfull hills and oddly-shaped rocks
I took a hike on this gusty, warm day to explore the surrounding landforms
Driving past crystal clear rivers and endless farmlands with snow-capped mountain range in the distance
A
beautiful October twilight scene
Dusk calling...a flash of flaming gold
There are endless natural grasslands where free-range goats and
sheep, horses and camels roam freely in
the highlands or by the lakes.
Happy sheep grazing in the highlands
Free-range camels grazing on the mountain grassland
We took a detour to visit to an ethnic Kazakh family camel farm
All natural homemade camel yoghurt -- this is the first time I have savoured such a refreshingly creamy yet light yoghurt. I bought a good few litres of the yoghurt to enjoy daily on the trip
The lady of the farm serving the last bucket of the raw camel milk of the day. Yum!
According to the locals, drinking camel milk boosts the immune system. It is a quick and certain remedy for ailments, especially good for the lungs!
Kekesuli Lake
This is also known as the, ‘Wild Duck Lake’, Keketuohai, Fuyun county in Altay mountain region
I got completely lost in the moment…for hours…savouring
the stunning landscapes!
A natural contrasting landscape – the blue sky, the
snow-capped mountains in the distance, the mountain range in the front, the
wild reed fields and the turquoise-coloured lake created such a compelling and unique piece of natural artwork
Towering wild reeds
Onward journey...
...capturing sundown
We took a couple of detours before we arrived in a small village where we took a break to explore the surroundings while waiting to meet with a local Tuwa villager to take us into Kanas Lake Nature Reserve and to experience the local lifestyle of the ethnic minority group, at a Tuwa village.
A local village kid happily engrossed with his new found natural plaything
A surprise visit -- the ethnic lady folks were
happily chatting away, making a popular local deep-fried snack inside a yurt. All smiles and welcoming, I joined in and had a go at making them!
Kanas Lake Nature Reserve and Tuwa Village
Winter arrived early this season. We were unable to stay inside
Kanas Lake Nature Reserve. The only hotel there has closed for the winter. There
was snow up in the mountains and all activities in the lake have stopped
operation.
This turned out to be a blessing as it was not crowded. Besides
enjoying the early winter scenery, we eventually stayed in a local Tuwa
village guesthouse that turned out to be quite an adventure!
There was no running water! The winter cold has frozen the water
pipes. The Tuwa family was kind; they boiled hot water to provide for the guests.
I stayed with our hospitable host since the log cabins were fully
occupied. I managed to get some rest on the large platform bed where all the
family members use as a living and dining area by day and, sleeping quarter at
night.
My new found eight year old playmate, Nana gave me a tour of the village.
She took me out in the cold to view the most incredible full moon, night landscape. The air was absolutely still, the sky so clear and the full
moon so bright that I could view the surrounding snow-capped mountains. It was all
so quiet and peaceful except for the relaxing sounds of the natural flow of
running water from the nearby river. I soaked myself into oblivion…it was the most beautiful!
I woke up at 5:00am, took a morning hike up the hills to immerse in the first light...
I felt I was in the Swiss Alps as I stood right here from the top of the hills surrounded by mountain range, enjoying the winter foliage of poplar trees and the sleepy Tuwa village.
The foundation of the log cabin has been carefully constructed where a large part of the house is concealed under the earth to keep the cold out that lasts for almost half a year and, has been properly damp-proofed.
The meandering river that forms the border between China and Kazakhstan
The Tuwa family house -- Nana sat and leaned against the solid log cabin house that was built using single-deck logs with an average diameter of about 30 to 40 centimetres. Some seen here were far larger depending on the size of the log cabin built.
The
traditional Tuwa ethnic minority of the Tuwa people are of Tuwa Mongol origins;
believed to be the descendants of a Mongolian tribe. They live on the southern
bank of the Kanas Lake.
Tuwa
people speak Turkish, like the language of Kazakh, and depend on the surrounding
mountains, rivers, forest, grasslands and lake to hunt for food, forage for wild herbs and plants and, raise
cattle.They
have preserved their unique tradition and folk customs
The
Baihaba Tuwa village region would require foreign travellers to apply for a
special permit to visit. It helps to arrange well in advance if you plan for a visit to this amazing village. 
The only school in the village
The village school -- I saw about thirty students this morning. I walked Nana to school, met
some of her schoolmates, greeted her class teacher before leaving for Kanas
Lake Nature Reserve.
All of the village kids walk to and from school each day on their own.
Nana, the twins and another of her classmate (right to left) --
they are adorable but aggressive in school. I think they all have a little of
the Mongol warrior blood in them!
The village kids learn the standard Mandarin Chinese language in class as well. Nana does not speak much Mandarin Chinese.
Most tours and travellers to Kanas Lake Nature Reserve would go to enjoy the fall colours in September and October. This is the super peak travel season. The costs of everything will cost much more than anticipated especially within the Kanas Lake Nature Reserve. Most foreigners are surprised that accommodation here is higher than in the major coastal cities in China. A bowl of simple noodles in the Kanas Lake Nature Reserve costs about 50 Yuan or more.
According
to our Mongolian chieftain, the better time to enjoy the fullest autumn foliage is
in the third week of September. It is advisable to find an experienced and
reliable driver-cum-guide to arrange the trip during this period.
Kanas Lake Nature Reserve in October -- the mountain range
Kanas Lake Nature Reserve in October -- the crescent moon bay
Kanas Lake Nature Reserve in October -- the dragon river
Sayram
Lake
Sayram
Lake is the largest and highest alpine lake in Xinjiang; at an altitude of
2,073 metres.
According
to historical record, it was called the "clean sea" in ancient China.
In Mongolian language, it means 'a lake on the ridge' and; in Kazakh language,
it means 'blessings'.
Interestingly,
it is also known as the "Atlantic Ocean's last teardrop” because it is final
place where the warm and the humid air current of the Atlantic Ocean stretches out.
The
lake attracts wild life; mainly migratory ducks and swans besides other birds.
Summer and autumn are the better seasons to enjoy bird watching.
Dusk at Sayram Lake
Bayinbuluke
Nature Reserve
This is one unique alpine prairie with
an average altitude of more than 3,000 metres above sea level, that is situated in the
central valley among the Tianshan Mountains.
A paradise for bird watching lovers,
this region boasts one of the largest variety of migratory swans and other 130
different kinds of wild birds. Photography buffs flock here each season to capture picturesque scenes of these wild birds and the breathtaking sunset landscape.
Feast for the eye -- the half hour magical moment. It was bitterly cold with gusty wind out in the grassland at an altitude of over 3000 metres above sea level.
I got distracted by this herd of blackhead sheep found only in this region of Xinjiang while having fun chasing sunset...
Delicious (blackhead sheep) lamb skewers!er wood fire!
Simply delicious!
The
night was freezing; it snowed. The next morning, I was up and out early to
explore the small town. It was very quiet, with two rows of shops on each side of the
only road here. I saw some local kids walking, on their way to school. I stopped and talked to two of the cutest Kazakh kids on the block!
From the freezing temperature up north heading south, we drove
past endless fields of rich fertile land so rich in natural resources in energy
and agriculture.
Huyang Forest
Huyang
is a unique kind of tree of the tertiary era, which is today called living
fossils. Huyang
tree has the ability to grow for a thousand years, live for a thousand years
and after falling, it will not decompose and die but remain living after death for another
thousand years!
Huyang
is the only tall tree that lives in the desert. Huyang trees rely on seeds,
lateral roots, and regenerated broken branches to repopulate the species.
It
is situated in the South of Xinjiang and north of the Taklimakan desert – the
world’s second largest desert.
A dying poplar tree still standing in the midst of the desert
Immersing in a forest of gold and red against the gentle dunes and the soaring temperature in the desert land, the forest is full of energy and life!
Stunning scorching landscape!
Bewitching tranquil moment -- a living dead poplar tree standing in the middle of an oasis
It has been a fascinating journey across vast plains, snowy mountains
and desert oasis. Most of all, it is the jolly spirits of the people – the
alpine lifestyle experience with a Tuwa family; a welcoming tasty meal with
songs and dance with a Mongolian family and their endless smiles…
If you are looking for adventure with a
difference to feast your eyes on the snow-capped Russian mountain range up
north in the Altay region bordering Mongolia, Kazakhstan and Russia and, to the
south on the skirts of the Taklamakan Desert to devour the picturesque Huyang
living fossils desertscape with surprises that may unfold along this less predictable journey,
this is the place!to be continued...