Sunday, 25 January 2015

Lhamo Latso, Tibet - 2004

Lhamo Latso Lake is also known as "The Life-Spirit-Lake" of Palden Lhamo, the guardian spirit of The Lake and the protector deity of all Tibet. 
Traditionally, the Dalai Lamas have made pilgrimages to Lhamo Latso to seek visions that appear on the surface of the oracle lake. 
This is where senior Tibetan monks, far and near would make a pilgrimage once in their lifetime to meditate and seek vision. The Tibetans pilgrims would do likewise. 


Lhamo Latso is one unusual trek rarely visited by foreign travellers. 
I had Sherrap to help arrange a two week journey to south eastern region, to include the five days trek to Lhamo Lhatso lake.


Yak butter lamps in a separate private hall located at the front of the Jokhang Temple

Bakhor Street is one picturesque landscape in Lhasa (3600m) -- the colourful sight and bustling sound is overwhelming with everything happening all at once. This is the busiest place in most months of the year except perhaps during winter when the open-air stalls are closed in the Jokhang Temple Square and all around the street. 
Tibetans in large numbers, far and near, come to circumambulate around the Jokhang Temple throughout the year. 


 Chapchi Monastery 

Chapchi Monastery -- happy monks having their meal. I am often invited into the monastery quarter kitchen to enjoy some yak butter tea and tsampa!


Journeying to the southeast region in September
We followed the pilgrim route, trekking through nomadic villages, remote alpine highlands, crossing mountain passes up to 5000 metres, stunning lake, visiting monasteries and finally, the steep ascent of up to over 5000 metres to the highest point with prayers flags to have a glimpse of the Oracle lake down in the valley. 


                         
Olhkar Valley --  at this small quaint quiet village, our guide found us two local village Sherpas and three horses to accompany us on our trek to help carry our supplies.





The sky is perpetually a brilliant blue throughout the year even in winter.
We spent the day exploring the village, enjoying the picturesque mountainscapes, visited two nearby monasteries of Cholung and Chozang. 

Tibetan abode


The Cholung Monastery ground


Cholung Monastery 
Inside the monastery, there are several prayer halls...



Tibetan Buddhist Scripture and sacred text


The different ritual objects for praying...







 Tibetan mural art using natural pigments -- the images of Sakyamuni Buddha of the past, present and future







The monastery -- the breathtaking view from above

Chozang Monastery

A smiling senior monk and a shy young monk

A happy monk and his lovely garden -- the monk eagerly shared interesting story of his life in the monastery. He spoke some Mandarin that he learned in the monastery. 







Wild flowers, plants and insects...




 Wild Tibetan bees and...any honey? 



Prayer flags -- the symbols and mantras printed on the prayer flags are sacred  and should be treated with respect.



We had spent the night in a clean guesthouse with only natural open-air facilities for washing up. 
Fortunately, it was a crisp clear night. Our driver and guide decided to sleep outside, in the courtyard in portable guest bed; snugging the several layers of thick blankets under their chins! 
Excited and exhilarated, I was up and out in the dark. Then came the surprise when I lifted my head instinctively towards the night sky. In that moment of excitement, I called out spontaneously and woke everyone up! 
For the first time in my life, I saw a unique night sky blanketed by open star clusters! What went beyond amazing? There also appeared a Milky Way Galaxy!!! It felt so close that I could almost reach out to touch the stars and the Milky Way! Absolutely magical!! This had been one of the few rare surprises on my many journeys to "The Roof of The World" experiences.



Our kind and playful driver gave a helping hand to our Sherpa. 
Before saddling up all of our supplies at the start the trek, we had been so fortunate to have met with the abbot and several of his senior monks of the monastery. The abbot sat down and spent a short time with us and, blessed us when he heard about our journey to Lhamo Latso Lake. 


First day of trek 


Highland pastures, fast flowing rivers, wild flora and fauna

Yaks drinking and grazing by the river on high nomadic pastures


A rare sight of a white yak (right) 

A yak carrying traditional huge wooden buckets for making butter tea





A monk we met along our journey. There was one other super monk we met later that had returned from a pilgrimage to Lhaso Latso Lake. He stopped, took time talking to us through our guide and interpreter when he learned we were foreign travellers. I called him 'super' because he have trekked that incredible distance in the one day! I believed he had that super "qi" (life-force)!!


Onward journey...
We trekked across high pastures, took breaks in between to explore curious finds. Often, we had to trek across rivers. 
At one point we came upon a fairly wide, fast flowing river crossing. We trekked shoeless, held hands together, slowly crossing the river. The water was freezing but it was the most exhilarating river trek experience! 

Following the trek that had made by the Dalai Lamas and senior monks

Fast flowing river  

 The ever-changing mountain landscapes



Wild camping! Our Sherpas and their cool looking tent (right), our guide and his tent (left) had his buttock showing and, our tent (centre). The night was...brrrh freezing!!

Day Two of trek


The carcass of a yak did not make through the harsh winter

 Approaching another valley -- nomadic pasture


 Tibetan nomad children and their home

The lovely children were all excited to have their pictures taken

Tibetan nomad children -- we stopped to have a chat with the happy shy nomad children; their mothers stood behind the tent, looked on. They were beaming with smiles, amused and excited to meet with us; one happily picking her nose! 









I had wished that we could have had stayed the night with these adorable Tibetan nomad children but we had to move on...





We camp out on the mountain pasture with this Tibetan nomad family and his yaks -- the chance of a lifetime to have the opportunity to spend time with the nomad milking his 'dri' (female yak). 


Life on the Tibetan highlands is hard. The Tibetan nomads have to move their home and herds when weather condition changes to find pasturelands. 
We had been extremely fortunate to have met with this nomad family and their yaks. Most fortunate when he happily shared some of his precious organic dri (female yak) milk!! This was indeed a rare treat for us!


  Happy nomad, happy dri and happy fresh milk!


The rustic art of milking Tibetan dri

Nothing like tasting the freshest 'dri' milk ever! Wow, the texture was one of naturally sweet, flavourful, creamy yet light and not gamy at all!! Super superlicious!!! Our Sherpas and guide were equally thrilled to have had enjoyed it!




Rare unique species of wild flowers -- the vibrant colours of blue and shades of earthy orange. An amazing little blue flower peeping through the piece of yak dung! 
Dry yak dung is green fuel in Tibet. 

Wild camping on the highland pasture surrounded by snow-capped mountains, nomads and yaks and our horses. Brrrh...another freezing night!


Traditional Tibetan tent -- our sherpas had the best snow-capped mountain view!

Our young Sherpa making yak butter tea

A Sherpa's meal -- the must-have butter tea, steamed buns, yak butter and dried meat. I joined them, tried a little of each. Naturally delicious!
Camping out in the valley with the only nomad family and their yaks had been an awesome experience even when the night was brrrh...freezing!!

Day three of trek




The breathtaking Yoni Lake...

A little piece of paradise...

Mani stone mound by the lake -- the Tibetans would do the clockwise circumambulation offering prayers of peace and harmony, health and protection for all.


A real living piece of natural art -- enjoying the ever-changing clouds and the wind upon the lake showing the changing shades of turquoise. 









 Wild flowers finding a foothold in between the rocks 









 The highest point on the pass
We camp out on the last night in the highland pasture after having made the most challenging trek over the pass.

Day Four of trek
Light and easy trek on our fourth day to Chokorgye and visit to the monastery
































After bidding farewell to our Sherpas and horses, we spent the night in the only guesthouse and the only one room to share with our driver and guide.
Our driver came to meet with us on the same day. He had had a rough drive when he encountered flooding at one stretch of the road; so much so that flood water got into his land cruiser. 



Day five of trek to Lhamo Latso Lake...


Arriving at the foothills...

Commencing the gradual climb up...





The trail ascends to Lhamo Latso Lake -- the unusual wild flowers found in this part of the rocky mountain slopes





Numerous mani stones and mani stone mounds  -- Tibetan pilgrims would each place and add a piece of stone on to the mani stone mound along with prayers as they continue the climb up...



The highest point at over 5000 metres...







                                                             The brilliant Lhamo Latso Lake




A senior Tibetan monk offering prayers

 


The ever-changing picturesque beauty of Lhamo Latso Lake



















The sacred Lhamo Latso Lake; a brilliant gem set in the middle of the stunning mountainscape 

Taking a breather to stop and smell the wild flowers 

Monks making the ascent and descent

Monks taking a break

This fragile yet tough beauty thrive in the frosty high altitude on the Lhamo Latso rocky mountain slope. 

Tashi Chomo's footprint

The five day trekking journey to Lhamo Latso had been most spectacular.  
This trekking journey experience had been more than rewarding -- the opportunity to have had followed the traditional pilgrim route that the senior Tibetan monks had left their footprints; the bitterly freezing nights in the valleys on the highland pastures, the stunning mountainscapes and the Yoni Lake, the wild floral and fauna, the happy yaks though had not encountered the rare Blue Sheep (yet), the nomads and the children, the blessings from the Tibetan abbot and monks...truly enlightening!

Back on the road and onward adventure journey to Chosum to the ruins and Mansion of Lhagyari...


(September 2004)

Getting there
I would like to do a 8-day trekking trip again; 5 days trek and camp out 2 nights by the Lhamo Latso Lake probably in 2016. If you would like to join a small group of us that are open-minded, easygoing and would do as the locals do, please contact me!