Mount Kailash 2002 -- The Year of The Horse

The Sacred Mountain

Mount Kailash is one of the sacred mountains in Tibet located in the wild west of the plateau.  It is the most sacred to Tibetans, Buddhists, Jains and Hindus – for them to do the “kora” or circumambulation and to the shamanic religion of Bon-po -- the one mountain top that is forbidden for climbers. 




We departed from Lhasa at the end of June 2002 on a three-week adventure, journeying across the vast rugged western Tibetan Plateau. 

The Potala Palace is the most prominent landmark in Lhasa

 The celestial yak butter lights in cauldrons

 Preparing yak butter tea in the kitchen

 Yamdrok Yumtso, one of the three largest sacred lakes in Tibet

The Palkhor Buddha Eyes, Kumbum Stupa

 Wild West of Tibet

Wild flower 

The occasional ever-changing weather conditions but good on the most part of our journey

Mount Kailash (Gang Rinpoche)

Its altitude at 6714 metres is not the highest but is unique in that it is perpetually snow-capped throughout the year and the sky forever a brilliant blue. 

The Tibetan name Mount Kailash, "Gang Rinpoche", which means, 'Jewel of Snow'.

Mount Kailash is remarkably rich in that four of the largest rivers in Asia have their sources within 100 km of it -- the Indus flowing to the north, Brahmaputra to the east, the Karnali, one of the main tributaries of the Ganges to the south and, the Sutlej to the west.  

For the pilgrims, it is a dream come true to do the ‘kora’ or circumambulation. But to do the ‘kora’ in the year of the horse is considered to be the most auspicious year of them all. 

This comes along once in every 12 years. It is more than just an adventure of a lifetime!  

The next auspicious cycle year is in 2014. 

Every year pilgrims would do the ‘kora’ or circumambulation around this sacred mountain.

The year of the horse is considered to be the most auspicious to do the ‘kora’ – the positive energy is at its peak. It is believed that one would be enlightened, having arrived at certain level of spiritual wisdom, so to speak -- that when you do one ‘kora’ in this year, it signifies having completed 12 rounds of the ‘kora’.

The 51 km trek for the less hardy and fit travellers takes up to 4 days starting from Darchen village. The robust Tibetan pilgrims do the ‘kora’ in a day! 

I was completely swept away, totally immersed in the ever-changing scenic landscapes surrounding us, the various subtle moods and the changing atmosphere; the deep soul of "Gang Rinpoche". 


The 'Kora' 

Many Tibetans regard this sacred mountain to have magical power since the ancient times – where Tibetan Buddhist saints like Milarepa and Padmasambhava had lived in certain caves in the mountains for many years.

Many Buddhist ascetics, hermits and Buddhists have been drawn to the area of the mountains for over two thousand years to see it, circumambulate it and, for some to practise austerities and meditation.

It was only in the 1980s when Tibet had opened up to welcome foreigners that the few curious foreigners had ventured to Mount Kailash – the place then was difficult to access by trucks, land cruisers and horseback. Some made it there even on foot! It is so difficult to reach and the obstacles that people in trying to get there are attributed to the power of the mountain itself – which allows only those with ample spiritual preparation a glimpse of the magical presence. 

Our journey started from Lhasa heading west to Mount Kailash.

For us, the journey to the Wild West towards Mount Kailash had been most adventurous and enlightening. The journey there was met with only a couple of adventurous encounters. Once, our land cruiser was caught in the sand. We had to get help from a nearby town to tow our vehicle with curious village folks looking on but most of them gave a helping hand. Another time, when our land cruiser had to go across a river – that had water almost reaching the inside of the vehicle!

We did what the Tibetans do – completed the full circle ‘kora’ without making much preparation for the trek -- the most challenging, toughest of them all. This surpassed my trekking experience to the base camp of Mount Everest in 1996 when we camped overnight at the quarters of the Rongbu monastery, the highest monastery in the world and the trek in 2004 to the sacred Lake Lhamo Latso.

This had been one of the most incredible, enigmatic places on Earth to trek around the mountain – the natural extraordinary rock formations of the peaks and, the ridges are the needles, points and protuberances, some of which were shaped like stupas not to mention the sites of ruins of a few monasteries in the distance.

This was one trekking journey that completely took my breath away!

We were fairly well equipped -- brought our own tent that takes up to four adults, sleeping bags, warm clothing, comfortable trekking shoes, one cooking stove and pot and food supplies for the trek. I brought energy fruit bars to enjoy during breaks along the trek.  

We did not exactly have a trekking plan in place on how to do the trek since I felt totally safe having our good Tibetan friend, Sherrap, a licensed guide to take us. It took quite a bit of coaxing to get him to agree to take and accompany a 3-female group to do the ‘kora’

The nights were freezing – that was quickly forgotten when we started to do the ‘kora’, enjoying the sight -- pilgrims, travellers, yaks carrying supplies, yaks carrying Indian pilgrims and much more. 

Day One

Prayer flags and mani stone mounds

Tibetan pilgrims' tents 

Darchen Village -- the first day of trek at daybreak. Everyone had their supplies in place, with their sherpas and yaks, getting ready to do the 'kora'. We have yet to find our sherpas, yaks! 

First day of trek

First day of trek

First day of trekking took up to 8 hours

We started from Darchen in the morning on our own without anyone to guide us except to follow the trail until we reach a resting point to wait for Sherrap. He went off to the village to find us two sherpas and yaks to take our personal belongings and food supply for the kora.

I felt so excited on the first day; stopped to immerse in the pristine yet wildly remote surroundings taking pictures looking back to see if Sherrap may be behind us. It was not long until we saw small groups of pilgrims past us that we started to grow anxious. There was a big group of pilgrims from India as well. Each group of pilgrims stopped to take a break at the halfway point with wooden benches in a make shift Tibetan tent, still no Sherrap in sight nor our yaks or Sherpa.

We started to grow really anxious as each minute ticked by, waiting for a familiar face to show up which seemed forever. What if, Sherrap had not showed up before night fall? What are we to do? We would freeze to death in the open! Brrrh… 

We kept looking at the trail, hoping to see a familiar face to appear. Finally, yes, finally, Sherrap appeared with two yaks – one to take our supplies and another yak for Kuan to ride on when she needed it. He told us that he had a hard time looking for Sherpa but did not find any. He had to travel farther and eventually, had to settle for two siblings from a remote village. Both siblings had never taken anyone to do the kora around Mt Kailash. 

The trek took a further two hours before we arrived at our first camp site in Chugu.

We had to pitch our own tent with our helpers looking on as they did not know to do one. We had a simple meal before turning in for the night to prepare for the second day trek that was most arduous to do. 

Day Two 

Tibetan and Indian pilgrims starting out -- there was a group of Indian pilgrims that had their Nepalese guide and sherpas with them. Several yaks had to carry some of them who could not make the climb on foot. 

Stone footprints

Second day of trek -- our adorable Tibetan "sherpa" greeted us in the morning.

Second day of trek -- pilgrims paying respect by prostrating, seeking blessings before the 'Gang Rinpoche' partially shrouded in clouds

Yaks making the climb.

Physically exhausting climb up -- the Droma-La Pass at 5670 metres

Second day of trekking took up to 12 hours

We were greeted by our young smiling helper when she woke us up at daybreak. We took a picture of her!

From Chugu, we got a first good close up view of the top of Mount Kailash but unable to view 
the snow-capped top of it; the cloud stood hovered at the top and we had to move on.

We headed east to Dri-ra Puk, crossed the Lha-chu river. It was here that we saw some hilarious moments -- the couple of yaks carrying the Indian pilgrims got wild, tried to yank them off their backs when crossing the river. It was like watching a live rodeo set in Kailash. It took a while to get the yak under control. I could only think that the yaks sensed the difficult climb up ahead -- that it was time to get the load off its back. 

It was from here after crossing the river that begun a steady and the most physically taxing climb south-east towards the highest point – the Drolma-La Pass at 5670 metres.

Halfway before the pass, we came upon an opened space, where clothing was placed on rocks. This is the Vajrayogini Cemetery, a place where pilgrims had died while visiting Kailash is still deposited. 
To the left of the cemetery, above the Vajrayogini  peak, there were countless mani stones mounds placed by the pilgrims along the path and, before we made the toughest climb ever

Everyone had to do the rest of the climb on foot -- the pilgrims, travellers, tour guides, Sherpas and the yaks carrying supplies. 

I struggled up the last slope before reaching the pass – because of the altitude the ascent of the pass was one of the most physically exhausting part of the circuit around Kailash. When I finally made the climb to the peak -- the feeling was one of euphoric high!

We saw Indian pilgrims proudly placed their banner at a point at the Drolma-La Pass along with the prayer flags. 

Shortly after the Drolma-La Pass, we had to cross the large lake, Tukje Tso – 'The Compassion Lake'. The scenery around the lake was dramatic – soaring cliffs rising thousand feet up from the frozen water. It felt surreal. At one point, I had to be whisked across a crevice – that was another moment of pure ecstasy! 

After the lake, there was the decent of several thousand feet down a rock ‘staircase’. At reaching the bottom of it, there was the eastern valley.

We camp out the night at Zutrul Puk by the river after having trekked at least 12 hours and possibly more. 

Day 3 

Final day of trek - loading up our yak.

Last day of trek -- yea, completed the 'kora' together

Final leg of trek 

Third day of trekking took up to 6 hours

Zutrul Puk, known as the “Miracle Cave” was where a contest took place in the ancient times between two saints of different schools of thoughts. Imprints of hands and head in the rock took place during the contest is still visible today.

On this ‘kora’, I saw the few Bon-po pilgrims that did it in the counter-clockwise fashion following in their tradition. We followed the Tibetans, completed the 'kora' in the clockwise tradition. 

The Tibetans in general are most hospitable and an extremely tolerate group of people living in harmony with Mother Nature and other groups of Tibetans. 

I took a leisurely walk, stopped periodically to immerse in the moody atmosphere of the mountains on the final day -- had left with a heavy heart yet most enlightening. We headed back to Darchen village and drove on to Lake Manasarovar where we spent two nights and, our onward journey of more wild adventures --  Guge, The Lost Kingdom! (Read more…) 


Getting there
All foreign travellers are required to obtain the permit to travel to Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar. Most Indian pilgrims would do the overland Kathmandu route while the few visitors would arrange to fly in by helicopter from Kathmandu though now it is easily accessible by flight. 
We flew into Lhasa from Chengdu, spent four nights in Lhasa. 
We took the overland route : Lhasa--Shigatse-Lhatse--Saga--Mayumla Pass--Darchen--The Kailash Kora on foot-Lake Manasarovar--Guge, The Lost Kingdom--Gar--Gertse--Tsochen--Shigatse--Lhasa.
We spent a further three nights in Lhasa before departing for Chengdu. 

Accommodation
We stayed in 3 star, local standard hotel in Lhasa. The rest of our journey, we stayed in guesthouses or camped by the riversides. 

(June/July 2002)



A special "too-je-che" to our dear friend, Sherrap!!