Central Vietnam Cuisine
The central region boasts the country's most unique yet flavourful cuisine with emphasis on fresh produce; from the variety of special fish sauce to the incredible diversity of greens and herbs, and amazing fresh catch.
We spent three weeks on a feasting journey from mid-September to the first week of October to Hue; stopped in Nam O, a fishing village, and continue to Hoi An before heading back to Ho Chi Minh City. Our impeccable timing led us to join the local folks in Hoi An to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival!
A vendor selling fresh, raw and incredibly plump water caltrop (bottom left) in a small street, on one of my solo alleys walks; far from the madding crowd, in Ho Chi Minh City. An aquatic plant that is rarely seen these days.
Uniquely Nam O
This is a sleepy town, at the river mouth of the Cu De River, that is famous for its fish sauce. Tashi wanted to buy the highly raved fish sauce, but we ended up in the heart of Nam O, in a local restaurant to enjoy the authentic "goi ca", fresh delectable seafood dishes, and a taste of the special homemade fish sauce!
A serene fishing village scene at the mouth of the Cu De River -- the villagers here make the special fish sauce, nuoc mam and the popular goi ca.
We spotted a sign board placed on the side of the pedestrian walkway that has the huge print, "goi ca" -- the famous local signature dish of raw fish fillet salad with the unique Nam O dipping sauce.
The good news? We were in the right place; their menu reads only Vietnamese and only locals come to enjoy the authentic goi ca here!
Goi Ca -- a generous serving of fresh raw fish fillet, accompanied with a large bowl of fresh vegetables and fruits, and rice paper rolls. The homemade sauce made from fresh chilli sauce, Nam O special fish sauce, garlic, lime, lemongrass and their secret ingredients; although spicy, was insanely good, unlike any I have tasted!! (VND70,000).
Goi Ca -- a fun experience making my own Vietnamese goi ca sushi; fresh fish fillet, fresh vegetables and fruits with homemade chilli sauce!
Ngheu Hap Sa (steam-boil) -- Clam soup with lemongrass and sweet basil without chilli for those who cannot take spicy dishes. If you are into spicy food, you can enjoy the various spicy condiments that come with every dish.
The freshly steamed whole squid (mac com hap) at VND100,000 tasted like it had just been fished out from the sea!
I hope to return to Thanh Huong at 1029 Nguyen Luong Bang, to dig into the authentic goi ca that you can also take away. A hearty seafood meal that costs about USD17 for the four of us. It was so superlicious that our Hoi An driver ordered two portions of the goi ca to take home!
Hue cuisine is, notably, the Hue imperial dishes. Although there are a few fanciful restaurants that cook up several imperial dishes we were sidetracked; ended up trying some dishes and snacks that are popular with the local folks.
On this day, we found a boat, invited the owner's relatives to join us. They took us to a particular eatery on the island where the local folks enjoy simple yet hearty, scrumptious food.
Fried clams served with crispy rice crackers with roasted peanuts, fried shallots, cabbage, onions, pepper, fresh herbs, fish sauce and fried pork skin (VND25,000). A light appetizer, that can be enjoyed at any time.
Com Hen -- clam rice topped with roasted peanuts, fresh herbs, fish sauce and crispy fried pork skin.
Com hen and bun hen have the same toppings. We savoured both, but I prefer the bun hen, particularly the fried oysters and fried pork skin! (VND12,000 per bowl)
Bun hen -- clams with rice vermicelli is popular with the local folks.
Sweet soup -- a lady at a side stall of this eatery gave us a small, half-filled glass, a local dessert that we did not order, and in the end charged us VND5,000 for it.
This eatery prepares con hen and bun hen. According to the local folks, the best bun hen is here! (VND12,000)
Song Huong River
Taking a boat ride along the Song Huong (Perfume river) offers an interesting option to explore the villages and market places. We did just that and more -- the boat owner, Lieu, went to the market, bought fresh produce and cooked a rustic meal on board for all of us, including the boatman and her relative.
Fried fish and stir-fried vegetables are prepared separately with pineapple, tomatoes, black wood ear fungus, fish sauce and fresh herbs.
Lieu, the boat owner and her relative cooking up a meal in the kitchen area of their boat.
The Hue Family Home
This was a special occasion. We were invited to a Hue family home on a Sunday afternoon to meet with my friend, Thanh's mother and sister Hy.
The local culture is to bring some gifts for the family when invited to dine with them.
The local culture is to bring some gifts for the family when invited to dine with them.
A generous spread of local delights arranged by Thanh's mum. Banh canh Nam Pho is a soup made with shrimp and tapioca rice flour. There are the numerous tiny plates of Banh Beo, also known as water fern cake -- steamed rice cake with a dimpled centre in tiny saucers, topped with dried shrimps and sauce. According to Thanh's mum, it costs VND1,000 each and one could easily enjoy at least 10 plates or more. She would then return the empty saucers to the vendor.
Banh nam is a steam savoury snack, wrapped in banana leaf, and dip in fish sauce.
Banh cuon thit noung -- roll rice flour, pork with herbal salad (5 pieces at VND20,000)
Banh Bot Poc -- shrimp and ground pork in ginger leaf
The Hue Festival
This festival is held once every two years during the public holidays. The Hue Festival will be held in April, 29th to May, 4th 2016.
Hy mentioned that one of the highlights of the the Hue Festival will feature the Imperial Royal Feast, Music and Dance besides other programmes.
(updated February 2016)
According to the Hue Cultural and Tourism Centre, there will be an Imperial Night featuring the Royal Feast for two nights only, from 6:00pm to 8:00pm at the Hue Citadel. No specific dates have been set yet. This is the event that I find most interesting because an invited team of the best chefs will prepare the Grand Imperial Feast. There will be traditional Royal Dance and Music besides other programmes.
(Updated March 2016)
Our heartfelt thanks to Thanh and family for an invitation to their home. We were the first foreign visitors they have met, and our first visit to Thanh's family home in Hue.
Bun Bo Hue
After a walking tour around the Citadel walls, we wanted to enjoy the traditional Bun Bo. It took us a while to find this place. This eatery although is near to some hotels, it is not in the bustling touristy area.
They have been serving one of the tastiest broth here; made from pork knuckle and trotters for generations. You have the option to enjoy the pork shank, knuckle or trotter, or thinly sliced beef. They also have blood cake and pork balls.
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Piping hot and spicy or non-spicy of your choice, served with beef or chunks of pork shanks or trotters, and/or blood cakes; best enjoyed with a bunch of fresh greens like lime wedges, cilantro sprigs diced green onions, raw onions, sliced banana blossoms, mint and basil. Simply delightful!
Dishing up a bowl of pork balls
Bun Bo -- beef ((VND40,000)
The young man in the cap that served us the noodles is also the chief cashier. They are open throughout the year, each day of the week, and on public holidays.
If you in Hue and a Bun Bo buff, give this place a try at 17 (11 cu) Ly Thuong Kiet Street.
Banh Khoai Hue - crispy fried crepe made from rice flour and saffron that gave it the bright yellow colour, stuffed with prawn and pork served with vegetables and fish sauce.
Street Food
A vendor at a makeshift stall under a tree outside the Imperial City walls, selling banana fritters and deep-fried cassavas, using a wood stove.
While having some Banh Khoai Hue in a touristy restaurant, recommended by a celebrity chef; I got distracted by this ice-cream vendor on the street. I could not resist trying some; he was peddling ice-creams to the street vendors just opposite the popular eatery. The locals love having sweet condense milk in almost all of their desserts (sweet soups) or beverages.
A refreshing Ice-cream on a cone! (VND5,000/USD0.25)
Hoi An Ancient Town
Once an ancient spice port, with Chinese, Japanese and French influence; the food here is simply divine.
We stayed for a week, celebrated one of the most colourful Mid-Autumn Festival with the locals for two nights. We found ourselves exploring the winding alleyways to catch a glimpse of the lifestyle of local folks working away in small shop houses either busy sewing clothes or making local snacks. The Old Town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bustling with endless tourists.
Cham IslandWe stayed for a week, celebrated one of the most colourful Mid-Autumn Festival with the locals for two nights. We found ourselves exploring the winding alleyways to catch a glimpse of the lifestyle of local folks working away in small shop houses either busy sewing clothes or making local snacks. The Old Town is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bustling with endless tourists.
This lovely cluster of marine-protected islands is located about 20 kilometres from Cu Dai harbour.
On this day, we left our beach hotel at 8:00am, grabbed a taxi to Cu Dai pier with our local friend, Duc. Xinh, on his motorbike went ahead. They helped us booked a package to Cham Island for a day excursion. The boat operator put us with a private tourist group, so we could get a round trip ride on a speedboat to the main island, Hon Lao.
Duc arranged with her uncle to get fresh catch of the day from the market and fish vendors on the main island. Duc and her relatives cooked a rustic, incredibly luscious seafood meal!
The tasty oc vu nang is a favourite with the islanders
Duc holding two small live abalones. The islanders' favourite is the abalone porridge. We enjoyed both the porridge and grilled ones. Superlicious!!
Cooking up an afternoon seafood feast!
A vendor selling live sea urchins -- a makeshift stall under a shady tree, with a few low chairs and a table by the sea.
We tasted one, not the freshest catch though. (VDN30,000)
All speedboats and the local ferry depart Cu Dai pier no later than 9:00am. Speedboats will leave the main island, Hon Lao before 2:00pm. The ferry departs the main island at noon. The sea water was calm in the morning, but by the afternoon when we left, it got so rough that most of us were drenched in sea water on the way back to Cu Dai harbour.
We paid for a round trip on a private speedboat at VND400,000 per person. The ticket included a seafood meal, and about an hour out at sea to swim and/or snorkel at a popular spot. We opted out of the fixed programmes, explored the island at our leisure.
From June to about August, this region is a diver's paradise, with about over 20 metres visibility. Most ideal for snorkelling too!
Special thanks to Duc and her uncle's family for their kind hospitality. The fresh catch costs us about VND950,000 (for 10 of us); a treat from Duc and us.
Cam Nam Island
Xinh and Duc brought us to this popular eatery to enjoy banh dap and hen tron. Cam Nam Island is easily accessible by motorbike, bicycle or boat; a smaller sleepy, less touristy community.
We took a leisurely walk across the Cam Nam Bridge while soaking in the riverscape of the Thu Bon River. At the bridge, some kids were happily playing near the side, under the shade of a big tree by the riverbank.
Banh Dap and Hen Tron
Banh Dap -- this is made from rice flour, has a crispy top and bottom layer, and a soft, steamed middle layer of rice pancake; all folded together, dip in spicy anchovy sauce. (VND10,000/USD0.50)
According to Duc, Hen Tron is stir-fried small oysters. (VND25,000/USD1.25)
Quan Ba Gia -- the last restaurant along Khoi Xuyen Trung. Our meal for five of us costs VND140,000/USD6.50).
Seafood
There are many seafood restaurants dotting the coastline of Hoi An. Xinh has recommended A Roi seafood restaurant, one of the best and popular seafood restaurants that offers locals and tourists the same price, and good food. Unfortunately, they were closed on the evening we visited and Xinh took us to the one next door.
The refreshing goi hua chuoi (banana flower salad) is a must-try! We savoured two portions!
Clam soup with fresh herbs
The grilled fish tasted so good that we ordered an additional portion!
A local specialty
Crab in tamarind sauce was so tasty-- the sweet, sour, tangy, salty and spicy flavours only added to whet my appetite for seconds!
The seafood restaurants here provide a good variety of fresh live seafood, like prawns, fish, crabs, clams, oysters and more.
Steamed crab with lemongrass
The seafood dinner costs VND700,000/USD35.00 for five of us. We ordered double for the fish, crabs and salad!
Banh Bao and Banh Vac
This is one iconic part of the local culinary culture -- the most raved about dumplings, popularly known as white rose that all visitors must-eat when in Hoi An.
Like all visitors, we went to the most popular place that has been serving these dumplings for three generations.
The steamed dumplings are made from rice flour, filled with mixed shrimps and spices, topped with fried shallots and accompanied with dipping sauce. (VND70,000/USD3.50)
The dumpling ladies sat around a long table, continuously mixing and wrapping up the dumplings. You can have them steamed or fried.
They have the deep-fried dumplings/wanton as well. It helps to go early before evening; when they are sold out, they close for the day. It took us a good long walk to reach 533, Hai Ba Trung from the ancient town.
Street Food
For foodie wanderers, exploring the neighbourhood alleys and bustling market places is an adventure, to see and taste anything that looks curiously interesting!
Banh Xeo -- in the Kim Bong Village across the Thu Bon River, there are two stalls fronting the local market place. They collected the small discarded wood pieces from the local artisans. This woodcarving village is renown for woodcraft since the 15th century.
The bright yellow "sizzling pancake" has a piece of shrimp and pork in it.
Simplicity at its best (VND5,000)
Banh Mi Heo Quay
As we were walking towards the old town. I noticed a local folk on a motorbike stopped to order just the Heo quay (roasted pork belly). Curious, I ordered two with extra lean, roasted pork belly. Later, we learned that this young man was helping out at his father's stall when he is not freelancing as a tour guide.
Different from the regular banh mi I had tried, we ordered the lightly toasted baguette, lean roast pork, homemade barbecue sauce filling it with fresh pickled vegetables
We bought additional roasted pork belly.
Sweet Soups
This popular vendor is here daily, at a neigbourhood market place. We sat down on one of the only few low stools placed by the mobile food cart to enjoy our variety of sweet soups, and ordered more to take away.
A sinfully rich combo of grass jelly, basil seed, palm sugar topped with rich, creamy fresh coconut milk! (VND10,000/USD0.50)
Che thap cam (che lan) -- the popular sweet soup with the locals. A combo of tubers, lotus seeds, palm sugar topped with rich, creamy fresh coconut milk, at the stall in the Hoi An ancient town market place. (VND10,000/USD0.50)
Pho is perhaps one of the most popular daily breakfast must-have for local folks; enjoyed at street food stalls, eateries or prepared at home to kick-start the day.
Com Ga
Another mixed Chinese and Vietnamese food culture worth trying is the Com Ga or chicken rice. Although it is not originated from Hoi An, the locals have succeeded in making it a popular signature dish. While there are many places to try this dish, I was curiously attracted to a food street vendor, that opens at night, at the corner of a side alley way that was almost always crowded the few times I visited Duc's shop at 49, Phan Chau Trinh Street. Duc bought takeaway with extra chicken meat and vegetables (VND25,000/USD2.50). I was pleasantly surprised that the locals have created a unique version of their own com ga. It is all about the fresh produce, herbs and spices. I was totally blown away not by the chicken rice, nor the chicken meat or vegetables but the really small serve of rich broth with tiny weeny pieces of the clean, tender chicken heart, liver and gizzard!
Another mixed Chinese and Vietnamese food culture worth trying is the Com Ga or chicken rice. Although it is not originated from Hoi An, the locals have succeeded in making it a popular signature dish. While there are many places to try this dish, I was curiously attracted to a food street vendor, that opens at night, at the corner of a side alley way that was almost always crowded the few times I visited Duc's shop at 49, Phan Chau Trinh Street. Duc bought takeaway with extra chicken meat and vegetables (VND25,000/USD2.50). I was pleasantly surprised that the locals have created a unique version of their own com ga. It is all about the fresh produce, herbs and spices. I was totally blown away not by the chicken rice, nor the chicken meat or vegetables but the really small serve of rich broth with tiny weeny pieces of the clean, tender chicken heart, liver and gizzard!
Fanciful Breakfast Feast
While the street food culture in Hoi An is incredibly amazing where most decent quality food can be enjoyed in street stalls and small eateries that usually starts around 3:00pm, we decided to spoil ourselves, tasting the generous breakfast spread that came with our beach resort stay after having had four night's experience in a local homestay in the old town community.
They have a corner counter that serves up freshly made local spread each morning. The beef pho that comes with your choice of.fish sauce.
Each piping hot and thin crepe is swiftly placed on the back of the bamboo basket before putting in the fillings
Banh Mi with a difference -- the freshly baked, lightly grilled baguette was filled with pate and thickly cut roasted pork belly along with sliced cucumber and fresh herbs. A unique Vietnamese and French food culture.
Wanton Soup -- the wanton wrap is made from rice flour and filled with minced shrimp and/or pork and spices; a unique Chinese and Vietnamese food culture.
A quaint village located a few kilometres northeast of Hoi An, situated between De Vong River and the lagoon is a quiet place to chill out. There are cooking tours available for tourists, greens from the vegetable gardens.
The farmers practice organic farming -- they use the algae found only in the Tra Que Lagoon and the water to grow their crops, that resulted in providing tasty and flavourful greens.
From the garden to the kitchen to the table -- Tashi wanted to have lemongrass drink that was not available on their menu. However, I requested for one because I saw a whole bunch of them growing outside the garden. The young man was most obliging and went out to pick a few stems -- voila! A freshly brewed lemongrass drink at our table!
Basil seed chilled drink
It was a leisurely walking tour, exploring the village and their gardens. The wells that the farmers fetch water for watering the vegetables have some fishes in them.
This mid-Autumn Festival is celebrated on the 15th day of the eighth lunar calendar month -- September 27.
This is an auspicious day, held in the ancient town of Hoi An. The electricity was switched off and vehicles were not allowed inside the heritage area. The only lights seen were the lanterns being displayed all over the site and candle lights where local folks gathered around the street vendors to enjoy the food culture.
Naturally, the moon was at its fullest, and on the 16th day too. We dressed up and visited Duc's shop, indulged in a cup of specially selected iced coffee that complimented so well with the local cakes that Duc helped bought earlier during the day.
It La Gai cake -- the local favourite; this sticky rice cake (black variety) is made from 'gai' leaf with sweetened green bean fillings, wrapped in banana leaf. Absolutely delicious!
Su Se cake (yellow variety) -- another local favourite, is made from rice flour and coarsely cut fresh coconut, wrapped in banana leaf.
Da Lon cake -- the multi-layered and colourful cake though not a traditional cake is so tasty.
It La Gai cake (bottom photo) -- the yellow variety.
A good glass of freshly brew ice-coffee, using selected roasted coffee beans, ground on the spot, range from VND25,000/USD2.50. The several times we visited to taste the different coffee -- the black and the ice with milk (latte) of our choice was at VND25,000 and VND30,000.
Duc and Xinh would gladly fill in you on any questions about Vietnamese coffee shop -- their shop, "Hoa Champa" is located at 49, Phan Chau Trinh Street, at the crossroad of Le Loi and Phan Chau Trinh or at the crossroad of Nyugen Hue and Phan Chau Trinh; depending which direction you are coming from. An interesting place to go for a cuppa coffee when you are in Hoi An!
Ho Chi Minh City
We went on walking tours in and around the alleys in the local neighbourhoods. District 3 is where Vietnamese live. District 2 is also where the expatriates live. On another occasion, I took a solo alley walk in an area that was not zoned under any of the Districts that I found to be the most localized Vietnamese experience!
Our starting point was at a hotel. We walked along the main road and turned into a street that led us into a maze of tangled network of narrow alleyways. Every turn into an alley was like a colourful wonderland filled with small vendors cooking up one of the best yummy street eats imaginable!
We tried the bot chien at two different stalls; fried until crispy and dry, that did not taste heavy and oily.
A vendor selling fresh and deep fried baguettes
Comfort food -- a local folk wanted us to take a picture before he digs into it when he saw us taking photos of the food vendor next door!
Alleys open up to a completely different world of the Vietnamese, a place without tourists within sight on this day.
If there is an alley, there is always a market nearby. I started at the point of a school entrance, and wander through the nook and cranny in this laid-back neighbourhood.
Two food carts selling a variety of snacks and sweet soups. I had wanted to buy some fresh water caltrop on my way back, but, alas, there were long gone by the afternoon!
This vendor sells a large sized crispy and aromatic rice paper cracker.
They sun the rice paper crackers at one side of the alley
At the opposite side of the alley, the young man was brushing each sun-dried rice paper cracker with a sauce.
The market place -- a street vendor and her creative, eye-catching display of sugar canes!
As with most market places, this colourful, bustling market sells everything from A to Z!
A bicycle vendor was selling some unusual herbs and greens, that she placed in her basket. This particular green has a long stalk with several flower buds. We tasted this stir-fried floral plant in a new restaurant that Gary brought us.
The white and purple-coloured tuber (wai shan or shan yao)
The blended and cooked soya beans -- the coagulant was then poured into the long wood tofu mold, covered with cheesecloth.
The long strips of tofu
I bought one tofu drink and the tofu pudding to take away
District 2
This place just explodes with so much activity in the early morning! Most of the local folks were seen having their breakfast at eateries or ordering takeaways.
Banh Cuon -- a crowded eatery with local folks enjoying the steamed rice rolls.
The lady skillfully makes and wraps the steam rice rolls while another lady was busy serving the customers.
A mobile cart vendor selling a variety of fruit and herbal juice, and fresh soy milk.
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This shop bakes fresh baguettes, make their own ham and sells freshly made banh mi!
Gary took us to this eatery to enjoy the pho that also serves beef stew.
Bo Kho (beef stew) -- another favourite breakfast; dunking pieces of the baguette into the beef stew.
Beef pho in another eatery
Coconut Ice-cream
Kem Bach Dang is one of the most established and popular dessert restaurants with the local folks, a walking distance from Ben Thanh Market. After a hearty meal at Oc Oanh, we ended our evening, digging into chilled delights!
Chinatown market -- there are food stalls inside the market that offers either rice or pho
Chinatown market -- a vendor selling sticky rice wrap in banana leaf.
The mid-Autumn Festival is a colourful celebration of traditional baked caked and lots of lanterns.
Mid-Autumn Festival Fare. I could not take my eyes off this irresistible baked pig and the tiny weeny piglets!
We went on a three week gastronomical journey -- soaking in the local culture and mingled with the local folks. We took the overnight train to Hue, drove from Hue to Hoi An -- stopped at Nam O, a fishing village to look for their unique fish sauce, but ended up savouring the best goi ca. We made a detour to Lang Co Beach before arriving in Hoi An Old Town. At the Cu Dai harbour, together with our friend, Duc, we spent a fantastic day in Hon Lao, the Cham Islands, and chilled out the final leg of our journey by the beach resort in Central Vietnam before flying back to Ho Chi Minh city to explore the local neighbourhood alleys, to enjoy more food!
Thanks Gary & June for your warm hospitality! Thanks Gary for feeding us during our stay in Ho Chi Minh City!!
(Travelled September/October 2015)