Shaanxi

Shaanxi, a province in the northwestern part of China, is considered one of the birthplaces of Chinese civilization with a rich cultural heritage and a steep history. 

By virtue of Shaanxi's geographical location, the variety of ingredients found here and, the style of cooking, have created a unique food culture that is distinctively strong, flavourful, spicy, sour and fragrant. 

The gastronomic delights of Xi'an and the northern region

Xi'an is the heartland of interesting good food. One popular place to dig into Xi'an's rich food heritage is in the old town, near the Drum Tower, in Huiminjie or the Muslim Quarter. 
There are numerous eateries and food stalls along the main food street, around the corners and the alleyway -- a bustling and colourful flavour of Shaanxi food culture that is uniquely Xi'an.

A generous sprinkle of chilli, pepper and salt over beef or lamb skewers to spice up your taste buds!

Going nutty over nuts! A popular local snack, the barley malt mix with a variety of nuts or seeds are freshly made at this stall. It requires a fair bit of good pounding skills to get the right consistency before cutting them up into bars and packing them into boxes. 

Peanut barley malt candy bars -- the barley malt extract and peanuts were cooked in a wok until it boiled to a rich dark colour to form a syrup consistency before pouring them onto the board to begin with the pounding task. 

The owner, Mr Su (苏), a Hui ethnic minority, uses only the freshest of ingredients -- natural barley malt that did not taste as sweet as those sold at other stalls. He showed me the packaging that stated, "纯麦芽," (pure barley malt).

The walnuts with fragrant black sesame seeds is my favourite at CNY20 per box (USD3.30). The other selections are at CNY15 each (USD2.50). I bought CNY100 (USD16) worth of my favourites (7 boxes) and they gave one complimentary box of the walnut with black sesame seeds!  
If you are a huge fan of dragon whiskers candy (龙须糖), a good option is at Mr Su's! 

His stall, 'Ah Dan Specialty Shop', is located in the alley, off the main food street in the Muslim Quarter, "西羊市177号". Mobile no. +86 18165395561.  

One cannot miss this Hui ethnic minority stall that sells fried beef pancake. The proud owner asked that I take a photo with the stall's signboard that says, "Qiang Wa's beef pancake, the best under heaven!"  

The art of pulling and stretching of the layered pastry...

The rolled up, bell-shaped layered pastry...

A generous drizzled of beef, spices, chopped leeks and their secret recipe sauce...

Rolling up the ingredients into the pastry...

Beef pancakes, fried until golden brown. When done, they were lined up neatly, placed into the basket to drain off excess oil.

The lightly fried crispy beef pancake tasted surprisingly good with added aromatic spices along with chopped leeks and their special sauce. (CNY15/USD2.50)

 The rows of stalls selling beef or lamb skewers and flatbreads

Beef tripe skewers

The different parts of the meat of the lamb and beef skewers and stewed lamb knuckles

Artisan bread -- the lovely piece of oven-baked flatbread in the shape of a sunflower with sunflower seeds and nuts, created by a Hui baker. 

Shaanxi, rou jia mo (肉夹馍)  -- the cook's swift chopping skill in breaking up the piping hot stewed beef. 
It was drizzling on this day, but it did not stop visitors from queuing up to savour this favoured snack. The shop provided umbrellas for guests standing in the queue. I stood behind the stall, observed how the team whisked up the popular Rou Jia Mo, literally means, "meat (rou) sandwiched from both sides (jia) bun (mo)".

A generous portion of the chopped meat was then stuffed into the flatbread, with added gravy, with or without chilli (CNY15/USD2.50). I returned to the same stall with some friends visiting Xi'an the next day to try some of the popular local food in their eatery. Their fragrant rou jia mo did not disappoint! Delicious!!

They use chucks of freshly cut ginger and freshly cut lean beef, fry together in a big hot pot and cooked over a burning charcoal fire, until the meat becomes tender and naturally flavourful. 

Each stall has its different style of preparing the beef or mutton rou jia mo. 

Another style of delectable ruo jia mo -- a combination of beef and mutton! (CNY15/USD2.50)

The popular traditional snack -- the baked crystal cake, with the red-coloured seal, that dates back to the Song dynasty has evolved over the century. 
The most famous are the ones made in the Demaogong outlet, at the corner of Guangji Street.

An array of flatbreads  in various shapes and sizes

This stall sells a nougat-like snack but with a difference; using only honey, red dates (jujube) and a special ingredient. 

It has the nougat-like texture but not sticky and sweet and, can get rather addictive like dark chocolate!!

Street food in and around Xi'an old town

The small eateries and stalls in the back streets off the main thoroughfares in local neighbourhoods, offer glimpses of the local lifestyle. 

A popular stall with the local folks, just around the corner from the hotel, in a quaint local neighbourhood. It opens for breakfast and lunch only. In the morning, the vendor sells egg crepe with meat fillings, chives, sauce with spices. (CNY10/USD1.60). 

Diagonally opposite is a couple of fruit stalls that I go each morning to get my favourites to add to my breakfast!

After my first try at savouring these naturally sweet strawberries, I went back each morning to buy from the same fruit vendor. 

My favourite fresh mulberries! They are best enjoyed on the same day as they do not keep well. If the mulberry leaves are a super food for silkworms, the fresh mulberry fruits are a super food for me! 

On one of my journeys to Xinjiang, I learned from one Muslim ethnic family, that each family processes the fruits by hand into a thick, Marmite-liked texture and, enjoyed as a health supplement. 

Head to Shu Yuan Men or the Ancient Cultural Street if you are in the Muslim Quarter or the City Wall vicinity to enjoy the arts and culture of Xi'an. Here, there are pushcart vendors along the side streets that sell another style of beef sandwiched steamed bread. I tasted the curly steamed golden thread roll, known for its fine silk-liked threads rolled up into a bun. It tasted pleasantly light, non-greasy and soft. 

An array of colourful preserved vegetables to choose from or try them all with or without meat. 

Curious, I tried the vegetarian style if it may taste somewhat bland without the beef. Surprisingly yummy, an appetizing combination with the sweet, sour and salty preserved vegetables. If you like it hot, throw in chillis for a fiery kick! (CNY15/USD2.50)

The beef sandwich style steamed bread is very popular !

This flavoursome beef sandwiched steamed bread has the full combination! 

My jiaozhi story
If you have visited China and have tasted the different shapes, colours and sizes, prepared in various styles with interesting fillings, a trip to Xi'an is never complete without savouring the Xi'an jiaozhi; a unique world of dumpling culture. 
The traditional Xi'an jiaozhi (饺子) or dumpling in this popular eatery is about half an hour drive from Muslim Quarter in a local neighbourhood. 

We tried the ones that are popular with the local folks -- the daruo (pork) and yangruo (lamb) with vegetable fillings. The local folks enjoy their dumplings with raw garlic cloves along with condiments to fire up their taste buds. 

Daruo (pork) dumpling with vegetable fillings

Yangruo (lamb) jiaozhi

Simply scrumptious, juicy and fragrant in vinegar sauce!

This eatery, 'Thin Skin Li Dumpling Eatery' (皮薄李饺子馆), is famous for making the thin skin jiaozhi with generous meat or vegetarian fillings. If you are a huge fan of meat, this is the place to be! You can order as little as 50gm of each variety to try. You can have them dry or with soup. They also do homemade noodles to go with your choice of meat -- pork, lamb or beef or plain vegetarian style.  

This eatery has been dubbed, "学生的天堂" -- "The Students' Paradise", the jiaozhi haven.

The three different variety -- the lamb, beef and pork tasted so fragrant, so juicy and so superlicious when dip in vinegar, soy sauce or chilli and, do try a bite of the raw garlic clove to enjoy a different level of fiery kick. 

CNY42 (USD7) for this economical, amazing jiaozhi meal for 3 of us!

A local Xi'an reporter suggested to try the sour and spicy dumpling soup at Wangjia Dumpling Restaurant (王家饺子馆) in the Muslim Quarters, Beiyuanmen. 

Yan'an, the Best of Shanbei Cuisine

The food here is generally prepared by using different methods of boiling, steaming, stewing, braising or frying. The diversity of dishes and the tastes offer visitors a completely different eating experience. For those who prefer to enjoy stronger flavours, there are condiments of your choice to give it the extra spicy, hot or vinegary taste. 

In Yan'an, Geng and friends took us to a yaodong styled restaurant to have a taste of their local cuisine. There is the open-air dining area, popular during summer or have a yaodong dining experience in the yaodong room. 

A refreshing appetiser -- radish and wild greens mixed salad 

Stir-fried eggs, chives with a unique desert wild plant that tasted unusually interesting and palatable!

A local favourite snack, Youmomo (left), doughnut-liked shaped, is made of corn millet and red dates (jujube). According to folk custom, they are prepared and fried until golden brown; shaped like ancient gold coins that symbolizes good luck. A special snack served during festivities. The steamed buns and pancake are special local snacks as well. The steamed curly-wurly buns and pancakes, best accompanied with meat or vegetables of your choice.

Steamed buns with ground millet fillings.

Stir-fried potato (Yangyu Caca) -- the local folks call potato, "yangyu".The potatoes are cut into long strands, using a special tool. Seasoned with salt, ginger and garlic, mixed with flour and steamed before frying. Condiments such as sauce, vinegar or chilli to add to taste. Delicious with a crunchy texture. 

Looks like meatballs? Surprisingly, they are known as "yam balls" or "potato balls" prepared steamed or stir-fried. They are then dipped in homemade tomato sauce or other spices. 

Pork offal dipped in the special homemade brown sauce; tasted tender and delectable.

A flavourful lamb meat and offal, cooked until tender, in spicy soup.

A tasty combination of mutton soup and noodles, mix with spices or chilli. 

The most interesting authentic Yaodong meal

A dinner to welcome visitors or at festivities is never complete without the popular local Yan'an wine.


Shanbei Comfort Food

At Suide (绥德 ), we stopped at a local eatery in Zichang to try out the some of the top favourites with the local folks. 

Buckwheat vermicelli, made from low-fat buckwheat. The unique mutton broth with special ingredients tasted out of this world! 

We were fortunate to have arrived just in time to savour the last bit of the flavourful buckwheat vermicelli in mutton broth. 

Liang fan is another favourite snack of Shanbei region. They are also known as, "cold mung bean jelly", made from specially selected mung beans. It is known to help alleviate heat during the hot summers! 

The stall owner preparing a bowl of cold mung bean jelly. The tray of cold mung bean jelly (left), the big pot of specially seasoned spices and the three smaller bowls of the sour and spicy sauces that go with the cold mung bean jelly. 

The best cold mung bean jelly is from here, made from selected mung beans, mix with fragrant chilli oil, mustard, vinegar and other condiments that tasted refreshingly superlicious! (CNY3.50/USD0.60). 
You can enjoy them on its own or add in meat from the adjacent stalls or selected pork offal of your choice!  

All parts of the pig's head (猪头肉)  is specially prepared in marinated spices and sauce in this earthen pot to seal in the flavour. 

Ridiculously succulent, flavourful pork meat of the face portion. My favourite parts are the tougue, cheeks and the crunchy ear cartilage!

Donkey meat and offal -- the option to enjoy with noodles or with pancake.  

Lightly pan-friend until golden brown, crispy pancakes.

We ordered another round of the aromatic, crispy layered pancakes that tasted so good even on its own

We tried the sandwiched style, with the pork offal fillings and donkey meat.

The snacks ordered came in relatively small serving sizes; with distinctive flavours and incredibly tasty!

Liang fan or cold millet bean jelly, made from haricot beans tasted different here with the sauce and chilli that is spicy and refreshingly tasty!

Cold millet bean jelly that tasted so refreshing and has all the sour and spicy kick to it!

Pancake with hot tofu fillings accompanied by sour and spicy sauces and, top with fragrant sesame seeds! 

 

Vegetable pancake -- carrots, radish, green or black bean sprouts and other vegetables lightly fried with seasonings 

Pancakes or crepe, made from ground buckwheat grains that go well with any fillings of your choice or fry with meat of your choice!

Making mixed vegetable pancake

Making dry bean curd pancake

There was this huge bowl of sour and savoury seasoned soup placed at every table --  a starter to whet your appetite. 

Mixing my own condiments -- the aromatic chilli oil, pepper, vinegar, mustard, salt, spicy sauce, chilli sauce and sesame seeds. 

A bright, fiery bowl of pancake noodles that surprisingly did not taste as chilli, pepper hot as it looked -- simply delicious!

We tasted an assortment of pancakes with different fillings at this eatery -- the vegetable, the dry bean curd, the hot tofu and the crispy meat! They also served the cold haricot bean jelly -- simply refreshing and slurpyly delicious!

We also stopped at a family owned small eatery. Their specialty? Stir-fried donkey offal with fragrant spices and sesame seeds -- crunchy and yummy!

Tashi is allergic to anything spicy and happily enjoyed her bowl of refreshing cold buckwheat noodles with aromatic oil and sauce!

I joined Geng, tasted their specialty of stir-fried donkey offal with sauce and spices! 

In this region, all parts of the animal are used, nothing goes to waste. The offal is skillfully prepared, thoroughly cleaned with vinegar and water.  Soya sauce, chilli, pepper, mustard, green onion, ginger and other spices are added, stewed until soft and tender that has a clean taste and firm texture. 

Yulin cuisine is one of amazing delight -- the local folks enjoy grilled meat in the summer and hot pot in winter. Yulin is also famous for the diversity of Tofu and noodles dishes.  

Noddles in spicy mutton broth

Ge la buckwheat noodles  with wild desert plant soup is unique to Yulin 

Buckwheat handmade noodles. The ground buckwheat is kneaded to form a  dough, shaped and cut into pieces, put into lamb broth to make this warm and tasty soup noodles! 

Grilled chives

Grilled lamb and beef skewers

This eatery is in a nearby neighbourbood -- the signature dish is stir-fried donkey meat.  

Succulent donkey meat in dark sauce and green pepper, firm yet tender! (CNY60/USD10)

Stir-fried tofu with vegetables

A traditional bakery shop we found along the food street. Freshly made and baked daily -- these sizable traditional biscuits with red dates and red bean fillings tasted so yummy that I bought some to take on the train journey back to Xi'an the next day. (CNY2/USD0.35)

The traditional biscuit that the local folks love so much that I have to try one. Looked like a regular biscuit, but tasted so aromatic with a tinge of sweetness -- honey, sugar, cinnamon, dried fruit peel, sesame seeds and local flour. The owner, the sixth generation, added that this is the most famous local biscuit. (CNY2/USD0.35)

A popular local snack that is enjoyed by the local folks -- made of ground millet and sugar, hollow on the inside, crispy on the outside. The local folks enjoy them during festivities. They keep well for up to several weeks. 

Loess Plateau and Agricultural Heritage of the Ancient Red Dates 

We drove through rural roads where red dates (hong zao) trees thrive in the northern region. The Nihegou Village in Jia County, is where the ancient red dates (jujube) trees thrive for over a thousand years and continue to flourish. It is believed to be the largest jujube forest, covering an area of over seventy hectares and, the oldest of such trees in the world. This particular jujube forest has been listed by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations for its sustainable and innovative system. 

There are numerous jujube orchards dotted along the banks of the Yellow River. Although the trees are bare now, we got to try the dried red dates at the specialty stores.

The local red dates bought from the wholesale company from Jia County nearby Xianglu Temple. This variety has a distinctive flavour unlike most I have tasted in other regions of China -- pleasantly aromatic with a tinge of natural sweetness.

This is the sweet variety, bought from a local distributor in a small town. 

Shanbei Region Mini Melon

This is the first time I have seen the tiniest melon! They come in several varieties -- the oval, round or bell-shaped. The colours of the skin varies from light green-yellowish shades with dark stripes to dark green with light green stripes and, smells like honeydew melon!

A seasonal fruit grown in this region, it is about the size of a medium-sized orange. 

The mini melons, when fresh, are enjoyed whole including the skin and seeds. Smells like honeydew melon and have the cucumber-liked crunch texture -- so juicy and naturally sweet!! 

The mini melon seeds come in different colours of white, yellow or red! 

A happy grilled lamb skewers eating experience

The food street in Yulin is one fantastic place to be and is one unique snack paradise! However, a short walk off the thoroughfares brought us to this interesting barbecue lamb stall at the corner, parked alongside the vehicles, off the main bustling street amid the crowd and noise. 

Most of us nearby stood and watched this Hui ethnic family, keeping busy at cutting and stringing the lamb cutlets into skewers.

Happily cutting up the fresh meat from the headless carcass of the lamb.

Skillfully cutting the meat  

Another Hui member cutting up the lamb into smaller chunks

The Hui ladies stringing chunks of lamb on skewers and happily chatting. 

The barbecue stand that can grill up to about 100 pieces of lamb skewers at a time. 

Our special order of extra lean meat smells so good and tasted so, so yummy! One could easily savour up to ten lamb skewers each time!!

The owner, all smiles as we returned daily to enjoy the fresh lamb skewers -- the lean, succulent lamb's meat chucks skewer! (CNY3/USD0.50) 

Nothing like having the meat freshly cut, prepared and grilled and, my appreciation for them in providing the freshest, cleanest of meat is to simply indulge!  
Depending on the condition of the weather, they are usually open around mid-day or may be a little later in the afternoon, into the night until all of the four to five whole lamb (headless carcass) are sold. 

On the final leg of my Xi'an journey back to the city, my Beijing friends and their local friends in Xi'an brought us to this eatery, in the Old Town, to feast on traditional Shaanxi dishes. 

A narrow entrance, off the main street, opens up to a long, alleyway with red lanterns on either side, a row of specialty rice wine bottles displayed on one side. It was like stepping back into the Tang dynasty. 

The red-coloured flagpole says, "Go home for dinner" and the different traditional rice wine bottles displayed at the side.

Beef tripes with ground seasonings with sesame oil. 

Cold appetisers -- Buckwheat hele noodles and beef tripe. 

Beef tripe tasted clean and crunchy. Delicious!

Millet with local greens

The famous bottled gourd chicken 

A sweet dish, glutinous rice with red dates and other dried fruits.

Stewed pork soup

Stir-fried bean jelly with garlic, chives and sauce

Traditional Shaanxi delectable dishes.

Our Beijing friends brought their own huge can of beer to enjoy!

Fabulous friends and fun company!

An amazing night to end my journey in Xi'an -- the best of Shaanxi cuisine.

Tashi and I travelled up north to the Loess Plateau to have a glimpse of the Yaodong dwellings and to Yulin City, near the border of Inner Mongolia. On this two-week journey from March to early April, I ate my way through the food streets in Xi'an (South Central Shaanxi) and went on an incredible food adventure in Shanbei (North Shaanxi) region; savouring the variety of pork, lamb and donkey meat cooked in different styles; simply an amazing eating experience I have had the fortune to enjoy! 

(March/April 2015)

Special thanks to Geng and Wang and, to Xi'an and Beijing friends!!