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The Dream Destination – “The Most Beautiful Scenery Under Heaven”
Xianggong Hill – the mesmerizing view of the snaking gentle Lijiang River, a moon-like arc of karstic frames peaks
fading off into the distance.
Interestingly, the daughter stays with her
family after marriage while the son will live with his wife’s family.
They slaughtered one of their best free range chicken for the hot pot meal. We added in the the wild ‘san yao’ tuber, plenty of wild greens and, enjoyed other authentic Yao dishes.
Traditional Zhuang Yao Medicine
The 'Sky Hole' view -- the foliage below the opening is so lusciously green and the clear mineral water droplets trickled from the stalactites gave me the opportunity to have a taste this "heavenly" water.
'My Cave Retreat' -- the most exhilarating moment when I stood rooted to my space in the cave between the Heavenly Pit and the underground river. The air here was at its purest; extremely high in anti-oxidant that I felt I could live in this cave forever in that moment!
They started from growing the seedlings, when the shoots grow to certain size, they will be distributed to the other farmers.
As
I have had enjoyed the good fortune since visiting Yongfu, I
saw for the very first time, the green coloured fresh fruit that tasted totally
different from the dried ones I know. It has such a subtle fragrance to the naturally sweet
tasting drink. It totally wow me!
The vista -- the better time to visit is between 5:00 am to 7:00 am if you want to lose yourself in the sea of clouds, clouds and mists hugging the karst mountains and, the first ray of morning glow peeping through the misty clouds at sunrise.
The vista -- looks just like the traditional ink painting.
Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region
This province has a population of almost 50 million. The Zhuang ethnic
folks make up the largest population in China. Over ninety percent of the
Zhuang ethnic folks live here in Guangxi with the others residing in the
neighbouring Guizhou, Yunnan, Guangdong and Hunan provinces.
On this beautiful 12-day scenic journey from
end March to early April, I travelled to some quaint villages, a special visit
to a Yao ethnic family home, a cycling trip through the farms and villages, a day at one of the biggest weekend market and more.
The journey started from Guilin to Yongfu
county in Guilin, Lipu county, Zhaoping county and Xianggong Hill in Yangshuo and, detours to discover lives of the local folks, to experience the moment having to work for food and to immerse in the most picturesque karst-rock peaks that had attracted so many artists since ancient times.
Spring in Yongfu County
Yongfu, an apt name – ‘永’ (yong) means forever and, ‘福’ (fu) -- means good fortune.
A local ancient saying, “The rice paddies
here are free from floods and droughts and, centenarians can be seen in every
ten miles.”
This county is popularly known as the 'Hamlet of Centenarians". According to historical records, the oldest folk lived to 158 years old. The secret of longevity is simplicity in their lifestyle -- the creative wisdom; the folks love to sing and dance, wine and dine and, play cards.
This county is popularly known as the 'Hamlet of Centenarians". According to historical records, the oldest folk lived to 158 years old. The secret of longevity is simplicity in their lifestyle -- the creative wisdom; the folks love to sing and dance, wine and dine and, play cards.
Although a small county with a population of 78,000, this place has been
blessed with the best quality water and soil. The best quality water in that I drank directly from the crystal clear river! The last time I did that was
in rivers in the mountains of Tibet.
Perhaps to many, Yongfu County may not be a strikingly attractive destination at a glance without the convenience of the fast food chains, the big brand names and international standard hotels.
Naturally, having such good fortune (福) as it is, I hope this county will remain forever (永) in a pure state.
Perhaps to many, Yongfu County may not be a strikingly attractive destination at a glance without the convenience of the fast food chains, the big brand names and international standard hotels.
Naturally, having such good fortune (福) as it is, I hope this county will remain forever (永) in a pure state.
Captivating...
Reflection...
‘Hai Cai Hua’ (literally, sea of floral greens)
There are only few known places in Guangxi that this unique water plant
thrives. The species may vary slightly in the other few places. Some curious farmers discovered this by chance. Gladly, no research has been carried out so far.
When they thrive, it proves that water and the environment around this part of the region has to be at its
most pristine state; that they grow only in a limited stretch of the meandering river. I drank the water from this river source.
Lightly scented flower, this aquatic plant has leaves that resembles that of kelp plant.
Rustic charms off the beaten path
Beautiful landscapes -- one of the
few pristine places where industrialization is nonexistent.
A splash of golden colours across the rapeseed field with karsts-rock peaks in the distance
An enchanting shrouded river and village landscape
A wooden bridge leading to a village
Yao Ethnic Family Visit
The village -- two farmers taking a break by the rice fields
The ethnic folks are friendly and hospitable.
They would invite visitors to join them for a simple meal if they are preparing
a meal. The village kids though shy are fun to mingle with.
According to Mr Liu (刘老师),
of the Cultural Department, the major branch of ethnic minorities in this
county besides Hans is Zhuang, Yao and Hui.
Most of the younger generation has gone to
the cities to work and make a life there. Although they do not wear traditional
costumes except during festivities, they continue to follow their customs,
habits and traditions. However, these have been simplified over the years due
to convenience – the accessibility of modern communication and transportation
throughout the country.
Traditional Yao medicine has been a major
part of their lives. They would have a Yao physician in each family, typically
the woman. This practice has been handed
down from generation to generation. For instance, to relieve stiff neck or sore
shoulders, the physician would use bamboo cupping method.
I have been fortunate to be invited to spend
the day with a Yao family in the village. They have two daughters; both working
in the cities. The monarch of the house is over 90 years old! She is able to
take care of herself and still washes her own clothes. The fact she can thread
through a needle without using glasses was amazing!
This Yao family has settled here for four generations. The saying, ‘kao shan chi shan’(靠山吃山) -- the villagers live off the mountains, depend on the natural resources for food.’ Villages are located near rivers and on hill slopes.
This Yao family has settled here for four generations. The saying, ‘kao shan chi shan’(靠山吃山) -- the villagers live off the mountains, depend on the natural resources for food.’ Villages are located near rivers and on hill slopes.
The
monarch of the Yao ethnic family sat by the door, her favourite space.
They grow their rice, corn and seasonal
greens; meat comes from their own domestic livestock and, the men would occasionally
go up to the mountains to forage for wild herbs, tuber or wood ear (edible
brownish fungus).
The wild 'San Yao' tuber from the mountains. According to our host, foraging for wild 'San Yao' takes experience and skill. Very often, one needs to dig up to one metre or more into the ground on a steep hill slope to find the suitable ones.
On this particular occasion, family members
invited several of their friends who work in the city to help prepare a Yao meal.
As guests, we bought simple gifts as directed by our chief who helped to organise this privileged visit. I got fresh fruits and a carton of organic natural milk for the most senior member of the family. Their friends bought some fruits, sweet potatoes and yam.
We have to walk a good part of the way, passing through rice fields, a few village homes before reaching their home on the hill.
Everyone of us worked for food for the day
I did the fun part of the work – cleaning the wild tuber, ‘San Yao’ in the crystal clear river down the farm house. I was given a bamboo scraper as a makeshift knife to clean the tuber. An important lesson I learned in order to retain the natural goodness of this wild precious tuber, never to use a metal knife to cut and remove the skin with a peeler!
The chilled crystal clear river water down a hill slope
The serene surroundings of the village
They slaughtered one of their best free range chicken for the hot pot meal. We added in the the wild ‘san yao’ tuber, plenty of wild greens and, enjoyed other authentic Yao dishes.
The cleanly washed wild 'san yao' tuber. I was given a simple bamboo scraper to do the cleaning task.
Wild purple leafy greens
The
monarch of the family sat at the head of the table. The hot pot meal was one of
the best I have had in a long time.
The rustic lovely family front yard entrance
Their spacious farm home.
There are about ten Yao families; mostly extended families, living in this village.
Their very own homemade cured ham
They grow their own rice; mill and ground them in the stock room in the kitchen quarter
They grow their own fruits in their backyard, up on a hill slope
The Yao Ethnic Costume
A fine work of traditional art -- the silver handmade jewelleries have been handed down from generation to generation.
The art of embroidery work
The Yao ethnic women folks here wear their tradition headdress that they made themselves. When they are not working in the fields, they are preoccupied with embroidery work.
This Yao lady here sang a beautiful Yao song for us!
This Yao lady here sang a beautiful Yao song for us!
Yao ethnic headdress.
The village folks here speak their own Yao language.
After the delectable meal, the men took a siesta while
the host changed into her own handmade embroidery traditional costume, adorned
with silver jewelleries that were handed down to her from the past generation
and shared with us the customs and traditions that they have carried on for
generations. They showed us their embroidery works and shared interesting
tales of their lives.
Traditional Zhuang Yao Medicine
Medicinal baths are an important traditional way to prevent and
cure common diseases among the traditional Yao. On this occasion, I saw the
traditional bamboo cupping method used -- it has the function of warming and promoting the free
flow of qi and blood in the meridians, dispelling cold dampness, diminishing
swellings and pains. It is mainly used to treat such as pain of the low back,
shoulders, and leg.
The use of bamboo tubes, a smooth and rounded mouth used
to create a partial vacuum over the skin. This causes the blood to circulate
and pulls it towards the surface of the body to help relieve sore and tense
muscles.
Exploring the Heavenly Cave (天坑)
Unlike the other popular karst topography caves in Guangxi, this Heavenly Cave, also known as Heavenly Pit is largely unknown to most tourists and travellers.
The wonder of exploring this smaller cave interestingly is the "Sky Hole" view. There is a beautiful turquoise-coloured river that flows below to parts unknown across from the "Sky Hole".
According to the local cave guide, this cave was first discovered by a local farmer who was herding his cows in the dense forest up in the mountains. It all happened when one of his cattle suddenly disappeared. He went searching for it and found it fell into a huge opening. It was from this incident that the local authority did a search, found this mystery cave and eventually opened it to local tourists to enjoy.
The Heavenly Pit
The stunning underground turquoise-coloured river across from the Heavenly Pit
Longjiang town, home to the arhat fruit
Blessed with the best quality soil and water condition in Yongfu county, it is not surprising to find the best quality magical fruit, ‘luo han guo’ (罗汉果), also known as ‘arhat’ or ‘monk’ fruit. Longjiang produces the largest number of the arhat fruit. It is known to have healing power. This fruit has been around as early as the 13th century.
It was drizzling when I arrived in the quiet Longjiang
(Dragon River) town. I stopped to ask a man where I could find this fruit. He
took me to a nearby shop. Lo and behold, I spotted cartons of the fruits! Shortly,
a young lady appeared and started sharing the story of this magical fruit --
the entire process from seedlings to harvest to processing to marketing the
fruit as a co-operative business in this town. She explained in depth that they
spent a great deal of time; almost obsessively not only on research work but on
its health properties and how it has helped those who have use this fruit as a
beverage or for medicinal use. She offered the beverage that they made for
daily consumption at their office for me to try. I love it!
Xiao Fan, the passionate luohan guo 'princess' in Longjiang
The fresh fruit would normally be harvested during the September and October months. It was a rare treat to have had not just tasted it but also able to buy some.
The processed dried fruit are sold to distributors in China. This fruit has been used as a natural sweetener worldwide. However, the processing stage is the most vital; to do it exactly right to seal in the maximum nutrition.
They selected smaller sized dried fruit that is packed individually; costs CNY2 each
It was later that during my interactive ‘workshop’ with Xiao Fan that I realised she works for her father, the CEO of this company. Just before I was about to leave, Mr Fan appeared; invited me back to his office to take a picture with the awards he had been honoured for his contribution and achievement; years of hard work when he started out as a farmer. He
is now the largest producer of luo han
guo in the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region.
The longevity character carved out from the face of this hill -- there are 100 small longevity characters carved within this one huge longevity character.
How to get there
Yongfu county is about an hour drive from Guilin. You can hire a taxi or private vehicle to share with other travellers or take the bus. When you get into this town, you can easily find suitable accommodation.
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A soft-spoken and, extremely polite village kid said, 'No, thank you' when I offered him some goodies. He attends school in the village.
Juicy pear-shaped 'pipa' fruit; also known as the loquat fruit. Those sold at the market place or by the roadside stall did not taste half as good as the ones from this 'pipa' tree.
Guangxi is one amazing region that offers an immense range of diversions – the unique towering karst landscapes that are familiar to Chinese and Westerners alike; through centuries of eulogistic painting, poetry and photographs.
They selected smaller sized dried fruit that is packed individually; costs CNY2 each
How to get there
Yongfu county is about an hour drive from Guilin. You can hire a taxi or private vehicle to share with other travellers or take the bus. When you get into this town, you can easily find suitable accommodation.
Huangyao Ancient Town, Zhaoping County
This
ancient town with over a thousand years history is situated in the northeast of Zhaoping County. It was first built in the Song Dynasty; it flourished during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It has a rich history, featuring exquisite
pavilions and temples, unique ethnic folk houses and stone roads.
It
is called Huangyao Town because all residents' surnames are Huang and Yao.
There are eight ancient streets in Huangyao and most of the houses here are in
the Ming-Qing style. The town is nestled and surrounded by mountains which
helped to preserve the town's relics and traditions. Many tourists come for the weekend or during the holidays with
some staying on for months.
A
wet morning -- the drive along the highway to Huangyao Ancient Town
An ancient pavilion
The Ming-Qing styled brick houses and rustic black slate street
The ancient town is surrounded by karst mountains
The Li River meanders around the town
Natural works of art by the Li River -- I was in absolute awe of the splendid ancient banyan trees that had uneven distribution of branches creatively wrapped and rooted to the crown of the tree; shaped by forces of the wind, water, air and the earth over the centuries.
The stalactites liked branches of the ancient banyan trees arched over the Li River
Ancient Water Wells
Wisdom from the ancient folks has
never failed to amaze me; to have created separate wells that are still in use –
the drinking water is kept separate from other wells; one well is for washing food,
another for washing clothes and, one other for cleaning farm tools and other
items.
The spring water from the mountains flows continuously into the three metres deep wells that run into nearby rivers. The murky water seen here in the river was after the rainfall that cleared later.
The women folks going about their daily chores
Rustic Charms
Interesting sidetracks to several ancient villages in the counties of Yongfu, Yangshuo, Lipu and Zhaoping.
Once upon a time, the home of a noble family in Xiaoqingshan ancient village
Quaint abode
The Yongning ancient wall has a history that dates back to AD1477; one of the best preserved fortresses built during that time to keep out the enemies. Life within this ancient wall is one of total tranquil with the local folks going about their daily routine. There is no sight of tourists here. This fortress has been listed as a cultural heritage in 1981.
The courtyard of an ancient dwelling
An interesting 'duilian' at the sides and top of the ancient dwelling entrance
The view from within
Village folk at work chopping wood
Leisurely life within the fortress
True bliss within the fortress
They most prosperous looking free range fowls I have seen by far!
Spring palette
Wild find that exudes a lightly fresh sweet scent
Splashes of spring colours
A beautiful turquoise-coloured moth
Spring blossom
Guangxi is one amazing region that offers an immense range of diversions – the unique towering karst landscapes that are familiar to Chinese and Westerners alike; through centuries of eulogistic painting, poetry and photographs.
There
are the magnificent cave systems, the crystal clear rivers, the ancient
villages and towns; the ethnic groups with their own dialects and their
cultural festivities make this the ideal dream destination.
Indeed,
the warm hospitality of the people of this region beckons me on to experience
the exciting new find on each trip there.
Yongfu County --
Special thanks to Mr Tang, the deputy of Tourism, Mr Zhao of Tourism and
Professor Liu of the Cultural Department; for without their kind assistance to
take me around on an informal tour, this section of travel experience would not
have happened.