The Beauty of Chau Doc
Chau Doc, a small sleepy town in An Giang province of Vietnam that borders Cambodia exudes a warming charm.
I travelled from end of October to mid-November to soak up the landscapes of the flooded paddy fields, rowing paddle boats to visit the fishing villages, took a short motorbike ride followed by paddle boat journey into the bird sanctuary in the Cajuput forest and had fun on a jolly 'xe loi' ride experience to immerse in the local lifestyle. What's more? Savouring the authentic local street food and cuisine with a distinctive flavour, unlike any other places in the Mekong Delta region.
Life in the flooded rice fields of the Mekong River Delta
Sunset over the flooded rice fields
Absolute tranquility
During
the wet season, from May to November, a large part of the Mekong Delta can be
flooded. When rice farming become impossible, the farmers have adapted their
lives to fish farming and planting aquatic vegetables in the paddy fields
apart from catching yellow snails and other aquatic animals.
Farmers working on the flooded paddy fields
Farm dwellings dotted along the banks of the flooded rice fields
The Tra Su Cajuput Forest
This nature reserve covers a massive area that is an ideal destination for ecological and research of wildlife in the Mekong Delta region. It is home to the rich and diverse species of water birds, fishes, reptiles, bats and some endangered species. The lush vegetation, floral and fauna in abundance created an amazing haven for wildlife.
We enjoyed a short ride on the motorbike that took us into the forest reserve, got into a motorized boat, next into a rowing boat that journey into the lush nature reserve through the channels of waterways.
The trees form a beautiful archway in this part of the canal.
Water lilies, lotus plants and water hyacinth cover much of the water. Lotus flowers are cultivated by the farmers to supplement their income.
Rowing small boats deep into the forest reserve
The bird sanctuary -- small birds were seen hopping on the surface of water plants with some resting on branches of trees while others flew around foraging for food.
Bridge that links the inner canals provides an option to hike around part of the forest reserve
The better time to enjoy Tra Su Cajuput Forest is during the high water season, usually from September to November.A walk in and around the forest reserve
Life on the houseboat at the fringe of the forest reserve
A visit a Cham Ethnic community in the Mekong Delta River.
When our boat turned into the inner canal, approaching a fishing village, an interesting scene unfolded. The Muslim Cham ethnic minority in this village is Malay.
A local folk washing by the river
A Cham folk having a rest on the hammock. Life is this Cham village is so laidback
She goes to school that teaches some English.
Their houses built on stilts are basic and some in almost dilapidated state
The 'xe loi' ride
Getting on to the back of a 'xe om' and journeying through the rural area along narrow roads to experience the local folks lifestyle for the day has been so much fun! You have to give this a go to enjoy Chou Doc.
Largely dwellings and some small factories were seen on either sides of the road. On open fields, the local folks spent time playing volleyball.
My 'xe loi' driver
Freshly prepared Banh Mi with extras of my choice to takeaway!
It takes a great deal of skill to handle the 'xe loi', riding under tropical heat.
Local folks bustling about their daily routine in the rural area.
Having more than two family members riding on one motorbike!
Heavy vehicles like tractors were seen driving alongside motorbikes and 'xe loi' bikes
Vendors selling food, drinks and snacks on their push carts
Rural folks here are friendly. They like to greet and wave back at you with a warm smile
A small factory selling building materials
Eager school kids greeting, 'Hello, hello' and waved back with a warm smiles.
The Deep South
Situated at the intersection of a tributary linking the Bassac River and the Mekong Delta River, visitors are rewarded with a unique blend of Cambodian and Vietnamese cultures.
View of the Bassac River
In the evening, we enjoyed a delectable local meal at a simple eatery that only locals go. You have to get your guide or a local foodie friend to take you there. They do only Cambodian beef and prepared them in different interesting styles!
Cai Rang Floating Market
This morning, Khuong took me to visit the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta region. This is like one massive hyper-floating market where trading starts as early as 5:00 am.
Perhaps I was late at arriving at about 8:30 am or perhaps according to Khuong with modernization, having better road system now, this place was not as bustling as before when at that time, the local folks have to depend on the Mekong Delta River as the mode of suitable transport.
The Mekong Delta region is referred to as the 'rice bowl' of Vietnam. Rice is the major production of the country.
The Mekong River is popularly known as the 'Nine Dragon River' in Vietnam. Its river source in the Tibetan plateau flows through China, Laos, Burma, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam -- the Mekong Delta (South China Sea), its river mouth.
The Central Highlands
This is a popular destination for foreign and local visitors. At an altitude of about 1500 metres, visitors travel here to enjoy the cool weather.
Due to the ideal weather condition and fertile land, agriculture is the mainstay of the farmers. They produce highland rice, tea and coffee, fruits and flowers.
The ethnic minorities are diverse, with many subgroups living together. According to the locals, most are now enjoying modern living conditions except for the few that still lives in the remote areas.
I arrived at end of October in Saigon, travelled to the little laid-back Di Linh town instead of Dalat town; the latter being the most popular with tourists and locals.
I took the local sleeper bus, the six-hour bus journey from Saigon to Di Linh. At the bus station in Saigon, I met Thanh (pronounce as 'Han'). She has taken a long break and travelling to Dalat town to spend time with her aunt there. We exchanged phone numbers when she learned that I had planned to go to Lang Biang mountain for the day and would like to join me there.
I walked into the first shop I saw, called Hien of Juliet's Villa Resort for help! The owner of the shop was really kind; spoke with Hien on the phone, then asked me to take a sit while waiting for Hien to pick me up.
I learned from Hien that the bus company's office was only one kilometre from the 'nowhere' point the bus driver had dumped me and left me stranded! A hilarious puzzle that Hien could not figure out either.
Di Linh Region
Hien and Renaud own and manage this quaint cosy villa resort that has four bungalows, all spread around a lush beautifully landscaped garden that is near to her family's coffee plantation.
They have built their open-air dining area around a big tree -- the place to sit and exchange travel experiences with other easy riders and foreign travellers! Most would opt to stay the night here.
Di Linh Region
They have built their open-air dining area around a big tree -- the place to sit and exchange travel experiences with other easy riders and foreign travellers! Most would opt to stay the night here.
My plan to sleep in and relax did not quite work out. I found myself up at 5:30 am, daybreak; opened the window to soak up the clean, crisp, cool air. The birds, bees and insects were not up and about then...so so quiet and still.
The 'qi' (energy) was so amazing! It was like feeling the high and for that half hour moment time stood still.
You have to give this a go, at least once even if you are not a morning person and go back to bed after!
The owners, Vanoo and Hien would try their best to accommodation any requests and made me feel right at home.
Coffee Farming
Under the French influence in the early 1900s, the French brought with them coffee cultivation technique, built posh villas, introduced French cuisine and their culture to this part of the country.
Vietnam is one of the top growers next to Brazil.
There are more coffee plantations than tea growers in the surrounding hills; owned by family farmers. I bumped into a family farm owner, Trung while out on a day hike. He gladly gave me a tour around his plantation, offered me to try the freshly picked red-coloured coffee seeds of the two varieties cultivated on his land. Largely the Robusta, used in instant coffee, that he cultivated successfully and a small plot of the Arabica on trial run as the latter fetches a slightly higher price.
During the harvest season of about two months period, he would hire additional temporary workers to handpick about twenty tons of coffee seeds.
The processing stage from coffee seeds to the end user to enjoy a cup of the aromatic Vietnamese coffee is one arduous task moving down the various chains, passing through coffee traders. Most of the family farmers here adhere to sustainable coffee farming, retaining fine quality and strive to protect the natural environment.
Like all entrepreneurs, Trung hopes to have a co-operative with the farmers in this region and find international buyers for them.
On another day, Hien, Victoria and I walked through thick vegetation across the hills and coffee plantation to arrive at her brother's family farm coffee plantation to experience having a simple, rustic local lunch with the family. We sat on floor mat in the living area to enjoy lunch. Hien also took me to visit her mother's family home nearby to enjoy the popular local durian fruit! Yum!!
Local newly wedded couple had their pictures taken at the Juliet's Villa Resort
Most solo or coupled foreign travellers enjoy their vacation on motorbikes with experienced easy riders.
According to one easy rider, there are about two hundred of them in the Dalat Highlands region taking foreign travellers. They would plan your routes and accommodation at each destination. Most of them would make a stop for the night at Juliet's Villa Resort from Mui Ne or Nha Trang, the popular coastal resort towns.
Besides having easy riders and foreign travellers staying over, the local folks enjoy visiting Juliet's Villa Resort to dine, swim in the pool, fish in the pond or relax.
During peak travel season, they are always almost fully booked and would have to turn guests away. They hope to build two more bungalow units and eventually, their dream is to have ten bungalow units.
The K'ho Ethnic Minorities
According to K'ho ethnic minority in the Dalat region in ancient times, the word, 'Da' means 'water'. Hence, the name, "Da Lat" is known as, "the water of the Lach people".
Before the French influence in the early 1900s, the Dalat land belongs to the K'ho ethnic minority. The sub-groups namely, the Lach, Chil and Sre.
On this trip, Hien has arranged for his brother to take me on a motorbike journey to visit a K'ho village that is about 30 kilometres from Di Linh.
This village has not seen visitors; some of the local ethnic folks were curious but most were really shy
Only a few families here live in the traditional stilt houses. Most have been rebuilt to enjoy better living conditions.
The 'qi' (energy) was so amazing! It was like feeling the high and for that half hour moment time stood still.
You have to give this a go, at least once even if you are not a morning person and go back to bed after!
The waterfall -- view from my bungalow
The vista
View of the rice farm fields
The nearby sprawling rice fields
Coffee Farming
Under the French influence in the early 1900s, the French brought with them coffee cultivation technique, built posh villas, introduced French cuisine and their culture to this part of the country.
Vietnam is one of the top growers next to Brazil.
During the harvest season of about two months period, he would hire additional temporary workers to handpick about twenty tons of coffee seeds.
Like all entrepreneurs, Trung hopes to have a co-operative with the farmers in this region and find international buyers for them.
Raking and drying coffee seeds
On another day, Hien, Victoria and I walked through thick vegetation across the hills and coffee plantation to arrive at her brother's family farm coffee plantation to experience having a simple, rustic local lunch with the family. We sat on floor mat in the living area to enjoy lunch. Hien also took me to visit her mother's family home nearby to enjoy the popular local durian fruit! Yum!!
Local newly wedded couple had their pictures taken at the Juliet's Villa Resort
The camera crew gladly let me join in the fun taking photos too!
Most solo or coupled foreign travellers enjoy their vacation on motorbikes with experienced easy riders.
Besides having easy riders and foreign travellers staying over, the local folks enjoy visiting Juliet's Villa Resort to dine, swim in the pool, fish in the pond or relax.
During peak travel season, they are always almost fully booked and would have to turn guests away. They hope to build two more bungalow units and eventually, their dream is to have ten bungalow units.
The K'ho Ethnic Minorities
According to K'ho ethnic minority in the Dalat region in ancient times, the word, 'Da' means 'water'. Hence, the name, "Da Lat" is known as, "the water of the Lach people".
Before the French influence in the early 1900s, the Dalat land belongs to the K'ho ethnic minority. The sub-groups namely, the Lach, Chil and Sre.
On this trip, Hien has arranged for his brother to take me on a motorbike journey to visit a K'ho village that is about 30 kilometres from Di Linh.
The backyard
A quaint village house
The traditional method of pounding banana pulp
In another K'ho village -- the villager pounding cassava
The K'ho ethnic sub-groups communities
Traditional basket making in the K'ho village
The small basket takes about one week to complete and the medium-sized about ten days. They are for his family members to use when they go out to the coffee farm to harvest coffee seeds or gather cash crops.
The K'ho village folks now enjoy piped water supply from the mountains. The water is contained in a huge water tank located in a common area in each village, accessible for daily use. They no longer need to walk the distance to fetch water from the nearest water source.
The K'ho ethnic minorities are mostly coffee farmers and enjoying better living conditions.
Lang Biang Mountain
I stopped at this crossroad that led to the peak of Lang Biang mountain. There, Thanh and I met Cil Mom Blui, a K'ho ethnic minority from the Lach subgroup. She works there as a local English speaking guide to take visitors to the peak of the mountain.
The Central Highlands located in the south central region of Vietnam offers beautiful landscapes and rich agriculture farm fields.
Lang Biang Mountain
Hien arranged for Vy to take me on a motorbike journey of about three hours, each way through scenic routes to Lang Biang mountain for the day.
Vegetable farming at the foothills of the highlands
View from above
Panoramic view
There are trekking, bird watching or mountain climbing activities to enjoy.
Fresh strawberries
The Central Highlands located in the south central region of Vietnam offers beautiful landscapes and rich agriculture farm fields.
Getting there
For solo or coupled travellers, you could take a sleeper bus from Ho Chi Minh city to Di Linh town (6 hours) or Dalat town (8 hours) -- the Phuong Trang Bus company provides complimentary transfer service that is within ten kilometres journey from their bus office to your place of stay.
One way bus ticket from HCMC to Di Linh town bus station is 240,000 VND (about US$15). Upon arrival at their ticketing office, have the staff to arrange for their vehicle to take you to your place of stay; complimentary service if it is within ten kilometres journey.
Another option is to find an easy rider to plan your choice of destinations.
If there are four or more of you and depending on your budget; perhaps engage the services of a good local guide to plan your private vacation.
(November 2014)
The local folks
They are friendly and obliging. The kids would happily wave and smile back at you.
November is a good time to visit, mostly sunny with some rain and less crowd. The rainy season is from May to November and dry season from December to next April.
A fantastic and economical destination I hope to visit again.
(October/November 2014)
For solo or coupled travellers, you could take a sleeper bus from Ho Chi Minh city to Di Linh town (6 hours) or Dalat town (8 hours) -- the Phuong Trang Bus company provides complimentary transfer service that is within ten kilometres journey from their bus office to your place of stay.
One way bus ticket from HCMC to Di Linh town bus station is 240,000 VND (about US$15). Upon arrival at their ticketing office, have the staff to arrange for their vehicle to take you to your place of stay; complimentary service if it is within ten kilometres journey.
Another option is to find an easy rider to plan your choice of destinations.
If there are four or more of you and depending on your budget; perhaps engage the services of a good local guide to plan your private vacation.
(November 2014)
The local folks
They are friendly and obliging. The kids would happily wave and smile back at you.
\
Local folks playing cards while some took a nap by the riverbank.
Two women folks nearby were busy weighing and packing pumpkins
Tra Su Cajuput Forest Reserve -- two cool looking school kids!
A smiling monk tending to the temple garden in Chau Doc
A local folk at work in a rice noodle factory in the Mekong Delta region
Chau Doc -- the coolest kid with the cutest hairstyle!!
The Central Highlands with picturesque landscapes, the Deep Mekong Delta to discover the maze of the inner canals and the diverse cultures of the ethnic minorities have been most fascinating.
November is a good time to visit, mostly sunny with some rain and less crowd. The rainy season is from May to November and dry season from December to next April.
A fantastic and economical destination I hope to visit again.
(October/November 2014)